Shirred Sleeve Tulle Dress

6. Sewing Invisible Zipper

Place the zipper on top of the centre back of the dress where it should be. Mark the end (normally 3~5cm above the actual end of the zipper) on the zipper and the centre back of the dress. 

Line up all three layers from the top and overlock from the top to the marked end of the zipper. 

Baste along the overlocked length on both back pieces using 1cm seam allowance.

If you have never sewn invisible zipper before, one of these videos on YouTube will be very helpful. We strongly recommend you to watch one of them before you start sewing the zipper:

Invisible Zipper Foot is key to this step. It will be a good investment if you are going to make many garments with invisible zipper. Otherwise you can get by using a standard foot. 

Open the zipper with its right side facing up. Take the left half and flip it so that the teeth on the wrong side is facing up and placed right on top of the basting line on the left back piece.

The top of the zipper (where the zipper stops at the top, not the top of the zipper tape) should be lined up with the top of the centre back.

Make sure the teeth go into the groove on the left side of the invisible zipper foot. Sew from the top to 1cm below the mark. 

Close the zipper to check whether everything is fine. 

Open the zipper and repeat the steps above to sew the right half of the zipper to the right back piece. 

Fold the top flap of zipper over and tuck it behind the seam allowance. (This will keep the top of the zipper from being exposed.) Pin to secure. The metal zipper stop should be very close to the top of the bodice back neckline.

For each of the three layers, close the opening on the centre back of the skirt below the zipper by lining up the raw edges with the right sides touching and sewing up from the bottom to the end of the zipper.

Tips: using standard zipper foot for this step will help you to sew close to the end of the zipper. 

Congratulations. You have now completed the beautiful ruffle dress!

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